Drz400sm owners manual pdf

Squeeze and release the brake lever several times in rapid succession and squeeze the lever fully without releasing it. Loosen the air bleeder valve by turning it a quarter of a turn so that the brake fluid runs into the receptacle, this will re- move the tension of the brake lever causing it to touch the handlebar grip.

Check the brake hoses for leakage, cracks, wear and dam- age. If any damages are found, replace the brake hoses with new ones. Therefore, maintain the correct tire pressure for good roadability and a longer tire life. Cold inflation tire pressure is as follows. The steering should be adjusted properly for smooth turning of the handlebar and safe operation.

Overtight steering prevents smooth turning of the handlebar and too loose steering will cause poor stability. Check that all chassis nuts and bolts are tightened to their specified torque. Refer to page for the locations of following the nuts and bolts. Major lubrication points are indicated below.

The decision to overhaul the cylinder is often based on the results of a compression test. Periodic mainte- nance records kept at your dealership should include compression readings for each maintenance service. This will give a good indication of the condition of the moving parts.

Oil pressure: Above 40 kPa 0. Refer to the page listed in each section for removal and installation instructions. Engine removal is sequentially explained in the following steps. Remove the seat and frame covers. Remove the engine coolant overflow tank mounting bolt.

Disconnect the spark plug cap 1 , engine oil breather hose 2, engine oil hose 3, and engine oil tank 4. Remove the clutch release arm 5. Remove the starter motor 6. DR-ZE Remove the kick lever. Disconnect the radiator hoses. Disconnect the decompression cable. DR-Z Disconnect the engine oil pipe 3 and engine oil hose union bolt 4. Remove the engine sprocket cover. Flatten the washer 1 and remove the engine sprocket nut 2 while pressing down on the rear brake pedal.

Remove the cotter pins and brake pedal. Replace the removed cotter pins with new ones. Remove the engine sprocket. Install the engine mounting nuts and bolts. NOTE: Temporally tighten the nuts at this stage. The engine mounting nuts are self-locking. Once the nut has been removed, it is no longer of any use. Replace the engine mounting nuts with new ones. Install the engine sprocket, with side A of the sprocket facing toward the engine.

Page 52 ENGINE Tighten the exhaust pipe nut 1, exhaust pipe bolt 2, muf- fler connection bolt 3, muffler mounting bolt 4 and muffler mounting nut 5 to the specified torque. Remove the top-dead-center TDC plug 3 and generator cover cap 4.

Remove the dowel pins 3, intake camshaft 4 and exhaust camshaft 5. NOTE: Do not drop the dowel pins into the crankcase. Remove the decompression lever assembly. DR-Z Remove the cylinder head side bolt. NOTE: If the cylinder head does not come off easily, lightly tap it using a plastic mallet. Remove the cylinder head gasket 1 and dowel pins 2. Remove the cam chain guide 3. DR-Z Remove the starter drive gear cover 1 and starter drive gear 2. DR-ZE Remove the generator rotor cover.

DR-ZE Remove the starter driven gear 3 , dowel pins 4 , and gasket 5. Remove the oil filter cap 6 and oil filter 7. Remove the clutch cover. Remove the right crankcase cover. Remove the dowel pins 1 and gasket 2. Loosen the clutch spring set bolts working in diagonal stages, and then remove them when they are fully loosened. Remove the push rod, spring washer, and spring washer seat. Flatten the clutch sleeve hub washer. Hold the clutch sleeve hub using the special tool, and then remove the clutch sleeve hub nut.

Remove the cam chain tensioner 1 and cam chain 2. Remove the retainer 3, spacer 4 and kick starter driven gear 5. DR-Z Remove the kick starter assembly 6. DR-Z Remove the kick starter guide 7.

Remove the pin 3 and oil pump assembly. Do not remove the circrip A, before separating the crankase to prevent the oil pump idle gear shaft from dropping into the crankcase. Hold the generator rotor using the special tool DR-Z or a mm offset wrench DR-ZE , and then remove the balancer driven gear nut.

Hold the generator rotor using the special tool DR-Z or a mm offset wrench DR-ZE , and then remove the primary drive gear nut. Remove the right crankcase securing bolts.

Separate the crankcase using the special tool. Remove the dowel pins. Remove the balancer shaft. Remove the crankshaft from the crankcase using the spe- cial tool. Organize the parts in their respective groups i. Remove the intake pipe. Remove the valve spring seat. NOTE: Removal of valves completes ordinary disassembling work. If valve guides have to be removed for replacement after inspect- ing the related parts, carry out the steps shown in the valve guide servicing.

If the runout ex- ceeds the service limit, replace the valve with a new one. Only oversized valve guides are available as replacement parts. Refinish the valve guide holes in the cylinder head using the valve guide reamer and handle. Install the valve and attach a valve lapper onto it. Tap the coated seat with the valve face in a rotating manner, in order to obtain a clear impression of the seating contact. Seat the pilot snugly. Rotate the cutter one or two turns.

Measure the valve seat width W after every cut. Check that no gasoline leaks through the valve seat. If leakage is found, correct the sealing surface. Gasoline is highly flammable and explosive. Apply molybdenum oil solution to each oil seal and press-fit them into position. Do not reuse the oil seals. Apply molybdenum oil solution to the valve as shown, and then insert them into the valve guides. When inserting each valve into the valve guides, make sure not to damage the lip of the oil seal. It is not serviceable.

If the automatic decompression weight does not operate smoothly, replace it with a new one. Take clearance read- ings at several places. If any clearance reading exceeds the ser- vice limit, replace the cylinder block with a new one. If any clearance reading exceeds the service limit, replace both the piston and piston rings. If the diameter exceeds the service limit, replace the piston with a new one.

If the runout ex- ceeds the service limit, replace the crankshaft with a new one. If an attempt is made to overhaul the oil pump assembly, the screw may be damaged. Only the oil pump unit is available as a replacement. If any spring is not within the service limit, replace all of the springs with new ones. Pay special attention to the following points: NOTE: Before installing the gears, apply engine oil to the inner surface of each gear and bushing.

Never reuse a circlip. After a circlip has been re- moved from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new circlip must be installed. Rotate the inner race and check to see that it turns smoothly.

If it does not turn quietly and smoothly, or if there are signs of any abnormalities, the bearing is defec- tive and must be replaced with a new one as follows. Install the right and left driveshaft bearings using the special tool. Replace the removed bearing with a new one. Install the left gearshift cam bearing. Page Oil Seals Install the oil seals into the crankcase, clutch housing case, and generator rotor cover.

Pay attention to the following points: Replace the removed oil seals with new ones. Pay special attention to the following points: NOTE: Apply engine oil to each running and sliding part before reas- sembling the engine.

Page Crankcase Install the dowel pins to the left crankcase. Apply engine oil to the conrod big end and to the transmis- sion gears. If a large resistance is felt to rotation, try to free the shafts by tapping them with a plastic mallet.

When installing the balancer driven gear, align the pin 3 with the groove 4. Hold the generator rotor using the special tool DR-Z or a mm offset wrench DR-ZE , and then tighten the primary drive gear nut to the specified torque. Tighten the cam chain tensioner mounting bolt 2 to the speci- fied torque.

Page 98 ENGINE Hold the clutch sleeve hub using the special tool, and then tighten the clutch sleeve hub nut to the specified torque. Install the spring washer seat 1 and spring washer 2 onto the clutch sleeve hub correctly. Use a new gasket to prevent oil leakage. Tighten the right crankcase cover bolts securely. NOTE: The 1st 1 and 2nd 2 piston rings differ in shape. The spacer and side rails do not have a designated top and bottom. They can be installed in any position.

When installing the spacer, be careful not to allow its two ends to overlap in the groove. Hold each piston ring with the piston ring sections positioned correctly and put it into the cylinder.

Make sure that the piston rings are caught by the cylinder skirt. Tighten the cylinder head bolts to the specified torque. Also, apply engine oil to the camshaft journal holders. Place each camshaft into the correct position. Pay special attention to the following points: Apply engine oil to the push rod. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise with a flat-bladed screw- driver until the push rod is locked. Fit a new gasket to the chain tension adjuster body.

Disconnect the fuel hose. Keep heat, sparks, and flames away from gasoline. Remove the fuel valve. Replace the removed O-ring with a new one to pre- vent fuel leakage. The fuel from the float chamber 2 is metered by the pilot jet 3 where it mixes with air coming in through the pilot air jet 4. The fuel in the float chamber 2 is metered by the main jet 3. The metered fuel enters the needle jet 4, mixes with the air admitted through the main air jet 5, and then forms an emulsion.

When the rider opens the throttle grip quickly, the intake air volume increases and air velocity at the bottom of the piston valve is slow and sucking volume of fuel is less. The starter jet 2 meters this fuel, which then flows into the fuel passage 3 and mixes with the air coming from the float chamber.

Disconnect the throttle cables. Disconnect the coasting richer pump hose. Loosen the carburetor clamp screws, and then remove the carburetor assembly. DR-Z Remove the throttle position sensor. Remove the accelerating pump assembly. Replace the removed O-ring with a new one to prevent fuel leakage. Remove the throttle valve. Remove the intake joint. Replace the removed O-ring with a new one to prevent air leakage.

Remove the float chamber. If any damages are found, replace the damaged parts with new ones. A high-capacity centrifugal pump is used for the water pump and a tube-and-fin type aluminum radiator, which is characterized by lightness in weight and good heat dissipation, is used. Check the cooling system for leaks with a radiator tester 1. Remove the radiator cap and connect the radiator tester to the filler.

Pressurize the cooling system with kPa 1. The engine must be cool before servicing the cool- ing system. Rotate the inner race by hand to inspect it for abnormal noise and smooth rotation.

If ab- normal noise occurs or if rough movement is noted, replace the water pump bearing with a new one. Remove the front axle nut 1 and loosen the front axle pinch bolts 2. Support the motorcycle with a jack or wooden block and re- move the front axle 3 and front wheel 4. Do not operate the brake lever during or after front wheel removal.

If any dam- age is found, replace the odometer gearbox with a new one. If any damage is found, replace the wheel hub dust seal with a new one. Insert the wedge bar 2 from the opposite side and lock it into the slit of the bearing remover attachment. Drive out the wheel bearing by striking the wedge bar.

Page Reassembly And Remounting First, install the left wheel bearing, and then install the right wheel bearing.

Remove the front fork after loosening the front fork upper clamp bolts 3 and lower clamp bolts 4. NOTE: Hold the fork inverted for a few minutes to drain the oil. Remove the push rod 1, needle 2, and return spring 3. Slowly pull out the inner tube. NOTE: Be careful not to damage the inner tube. Remove the oil seal 2 , oil seal retainer 3 , outer tube antifriction metal 4 inner tube antifriction metal 5, and oil lock piece 6.

Pour the specified fork oil into the inner tube. Install the fork spring. NOTE: The end of the fork spring with the smaller inside diameter should be at the bottom of the front fork. Install a washer 1. Remove the odometer assembly. Remove the clamps 1 and engine stop switch 2.

DR-Z Remove the front fender. Remove the handlebar 1 and ignition switch 2 DR-ZE. Remove the steering stem head nut. Remove the steering stem nut using the special tools. NOTE: Hold the steering stem lower bracket to prevent it from falling. Remove the steering stem upper bearing. Page Forward specified torque. E, 28 Remove the rear axle nut. Replace the removed cotter pin with a new one. Support the motorcycle with a jack or wooden block and re- move the rear axle 1 and rear wheel.

Do not operate the brake pedal during or after rear wheel removal. Page Inspection Reassemble and remount the rear wheel in the reverse order of removal and disassembly. DR-ZE Remove the clamps. Disconnect the air cleaner breather hose and loosen the car- buretor clamp.

If any damages are found, replace the spring or rear shock ab- sorber with a new one. Low gas pres- sure can result in oil leakage. Abnormal gas pressure cannot provide normal performance of the rear shock absorber. Be sure to fill the rear shock absorber unit to the speci- fied pressure. Disconnect the brake hose from the brake hose guide. Remove the cushion lever mounting bolt and nut.

Fits both manual and automatic transmission models. Keep your motor running right with a fresh plug. The standard CR8E is a good plug and will work for a long time. A Dual Electrode spark plug will last longer than a single electrode plug because the wear is shared between the electrode. Trail Bikes. For those who prefer to take things off road, two-wheeled trail bikes and quad bikes present a fantastic opportunity to ride amongst the trees and other bushy areas.